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Worship Tips: Raise the Roof (Lower the Floor)




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Well, well, well.  It has been WAY too long since I've made an entry on the blog.  Gonna try to revamp this thing, along with an email newsletter that may happen weekly (go to the website to sign up).  Alright, let's get this on...

Raise the Roof (Lower the Floor)
Nope, not talkin' about the old phrase from the '90's  "Raise da rooooooof!"  I'm talking about the relationship of instruments on the stage and the gain/trim of the sound board.  This post is for worship tech teams, as well as musicians/vocalists.

One thing that happens often is musicians on the stage who do not send a hot enough signal (not sending enough volume) to the front-of-house (FoH) sound board.  When this happens, the sound guy's only recourse is to increase the gain/trim knob on the mixer (the knob that turns up the gain/volume/power of the preamp right there on the input) in order to get enough signal to be amplified.  This is okay to a certain extent, but the more you increase the gain knob, the higher you boost the volume/power of any unwanted noise that is in the channel.  This includes any stage volume that is coming into the microphone you're boosting, but I'm more specifically talking about what we call the "noise floor".  The "noise floor" is basically all the unwanted noise that is inherently in your audio.  It's the "hiss" or "ssssshhhhhhh" you hear when you crank up the gain knob way too far.  Every mixer has a noise floor - some more noise than others.  It's usually more apparent with cheaper equipment.

Essentially what happens is, when you have to boost the gain knob in order to get enough signal from an audio source, you're not just boosting that audio source, but any unwanted noise that is in that channel. Usually, this results in an ugly "ssshhhhhh" or "hiss" sound that will clutter up your mix and give you a really hard time trying to mix that particular instrument into the mix.  The instrument ends up sounding thin, unnatural, and you might as well just mute the channel because it isn't doing you any favors.

I commonly see this issue when dealing with a guitarist or other musician who is humble (which is a good thing), but also timid about playing.  They don't want to turn up their guitar, amp, or pedals because they, per their nature, don't want to be up front.  This is a great trait and quality in a worship team member, however, they need to be coached by the sound guy about the necessity of proper gain structure of their personal equipment.  This can also be caused by musicians who just really don't understand how to set all the gain structure on their pedals and guitar. (Gain Structure: the relationship of all the volume levels of each piece of equipment in a signal chain)
This also happens to bass guitar players who just don't play with any 'umph", barely plucking the strings either for lack-of-confidence in their abilities, or whatever.
More often, you probably see it with vocalists who do not use their microphone correctly.  They hold their mic down at the chest and expect the sound guy to be able to mix them into the sound.  Or, as vocalists, they have timidity to sing out or they just have a soft voice.  Again, this causes thin, lifeless sound, noise, often feedback, and is better off just muted.  All of these instances are chances for the sound guy and worship leader to coach their worship team members on proper use and setup of what they are using.

How to Handle
So, how do you handle this when it comes up?  Let's take an electric guitarist as our example.  During most of the set, the guitarist uses a clean sound with maybe a little bit of drive at times.  He has his amp, pedals, and guitar.  He turns up his amp and pedals just to right amount so he can hear himself.  The sound guy at the sound board will usually have to turn up the gain knob to some extent on the mixer on the guitar channel in order to get hot enough signal.  By the way, this applies whether you are mic'ing an amp, or plugging the guitar direct into the system.  As you increase the gain, the noise floor increases.  Up to a certain point, it's not very noticeable.  But this particular guitarist's volume is just too low.  You crank that gain knob up, up, up.  Sure, you're increasing the volume of the guitar, but you're also constantly boosting the noise.  What you'll find is once you get the gain to point where you can hear the guitar loud enough, the noise ends up being just as loud or louder than the guitar signal.  This is an immediate distraction that IS noticeable by the congregation.  And the cure is very simple:  Go to the guitar player, and ask him to turn up his volume (either on the amp if he's being mic'd or direct out from the amp, or on his pedals if he's going direct into the system from his pedal setup).  I find that you usually won't have a problem with a guitar player if you ask him to turn up his volume.  Of course, the super-humble and timid player may be resistant - however, gently coach them to know that it's affecting the quality of the whole mix and that you need more volume from him in order to fix some issues with the mix.  They'll comply because they don't want to be a distraction or a wrench in the cog wheel.  I love this worshiper!  They are the ones who show a servant's heart Sunday after Sunday.  Once they turn up their volume, it will allow you to decrease the gain knob level, which in-turn, lowers the noise floor.  The signal you're amplifying is louder than the noise at this point, life and fatness is back in the guitar sound.  Incidentally, another time you'll have this problem with guitars (acoustic and ALWAYS electric) is if the player is plugging directly into the system without any sort of preamp or pedal of their own.  Electric guitars ALWAYS need a preamp pedal and/or amp, bassists ALWAYS need a preamp pedal and/or amp, and sometimes even acoustic guitars need a preamp.  Most decent acoustic guitars have a built-in preamp on the pickup system, and so it's usually not as much of a problem unless they have their guitar volume turned way too low.  It can be a problem on cheaper acoustic guitars.

For gain/noise problems with vocalists, it's a simple solution... tell them to hold the mic closer to their mouth and sing louder.  Of course, do that in a constructive way.  Again, it will give you the gain you need without having to crank the gain knob, and will bring life into a lifeless vocal sound.

So, in short, bring up the volume of the instruments on stage as needed (Raise the Roof), and bring down the sound board's gain knob as needed, lowering the noise floor (Lower the Floor).  And always bring the gain knob to full blast on God's Spirit!

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Quick Tips: How Do I Afford the Gear I Need?




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Easy Pay Plans - Online music stores

So you know you need some great gear, but great gear is expensive.  How in the world do you afford it all?  First, I would advise that you carefully consider the gear you need and to search around for the right price.  Beware going into debt over this; it's not worth it.  If you use a credit card, after interest is considered, you may end up paying for the gear 4 times over.  There are better ways to afford the gear you need.  This should be especially important for those i'm trying to help out: the Christian musician.  Here are some ways to afford the gear you need that you may not know about...

There are several music gear store websites that offer easy-pay plans.  These plans allow you to buy gear, have it shipped to you, and pay for it in monthly installments without interest and without a financing plan.  If you have a visa debit card to your bank account, you can do this.  You can do this with your credit card, too, but please be careful with charges to your credit card.  These companies do a basic credit check, but it does not open any account and isn't reported to your credit report (unless you fail to be able to pay, in which case they CAN report to the credit agencies).

American Musical Supply (ams) - www.americanmusical.com  -  this company is great!  If you purchase gear $250-$995, you have the option to pay for it in 3 equal payments.  For example, if you buy $300 worth of gear, the first payment is due upon purchase (plus shipping), so shipping is $15, your first payment is $115.  The card you used to buy will then automatically be drafted $100 on the same day the next month, and then again the month after that to complete your purchase.  The best part is that you don't have to wait until payment is complete.  They send you the gear as soon as you order.  If your gear is over $1000, they'll break it up into 5 payments.  This is a great way to afford gear without having to drop all the cash at once.  Unless you have a money tree.  They charge a $10 fee for using the easy pay.

zzounds.com - zZounds does a 4 payment plan similar to AMS.  This company is also great.  Also charges a $10 fee.

sweetwater.com - Sweetwater recently started a 3-pay plan that is similar to AMS and zZounds.  Sweetwater charges a $10 fee to do the plan and you have to call to place the order.  Sweetwater is a wildly popular music store and they have some great products.

All of these online music stores offer great products and great services.  Go to the website and check it out for yourself.  It's a great way to afford the gear you need for your church, band, or your personal studio.

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Series: Tips for the Worship Band - Drummer


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Drummer
For each element in this series, we’re going to talk about technical points in not only gear, but also playing style/technique.  “Drummer” will focus a lot on playing style and technique, and some on gear.  We’ll also explore acoustic drums vs. electronic drums as a follow-up blog entry.  If you feel like you’re reading something that is elementary to you, skip to the next topic and see if it’s of benefit to you.  Let’s cover playing style first…

Playing Style
The drummer’s playing style has a big impact on how it comes across in the sound system and/or in the recording.  Of course, you need to get the gear in order as well.  One of the biggest issues I have to battle when running live sound and recording is inconsistent hits on the drums, especially the kick drum.  A heavy foot is always the sound guy’s and sound system’s friend.  Often drummers in church settings will feel like they’re playing too loud and they often do with the snare and cymbals, but very rarely are you kicking too hard.  It’s imperative that the sound guy gets a good, hot signal on the kick drum.  It’s the driving force behind the beat.  KICK THAT THING!  You’re not going to break it, and it isn’t going to be too loud for the sound guy or congregation.  If it does break, that will be really cool.  And if it’s too loud, the sound guy will tell you. There’s sometimes the thought that since there is a mic on the drum, it will amplify it fine and you don’t need to play hard.  PLAY HARD!!  As far as the kick drum is concerned anyway.  The sound guy can turn it down if it needs to be.  It’s important because if you don’t give hard, consistent kicks, it’s sounds dead in the mix and like a light thump, rather than a nicely defined, attack-driven kick drum.  It’s understood that there will be variations in the intensity of the song and some parts you may not kick as hard, but even then, still make sure you give a good kick that is harder than what you think it should be.  Even on the softer part of the songs, it still needs to be heavy kick.
With the snare drum, inconsistency is also a major problem I see.  With the snare, it is easy to hit too hard and cause too much acoustic volume. It will be overbearing in the mix.  If you hit too hard, even if the sound guy turns down the fader on the snare mic, it causes a mix nightmare because the sound guy now has to mix the house sound system to the volume of the drums on the stage.  Stay consistent with your snare hits, not too hard, but also not too soft.
With the toms, somewhat of the same deal: A good, strong hit is key.  The toms can be more flexible as far as striking velocity, but a strong hit is best when normal playing occurs. 
As far as cymbals and hi-hats go, you have to be careful to make sure you’re striking them with an appropriate velocity when in the church service setting.  Smashing down on an open hi-hat can be very loud and can actually over-power much of the stage volume if it’s not controlled. 
In conclusion with the Playing Style portion of this entry, just be attentive to the consistency in the velocity of your drum hits, that you’re giving a strong and consistent kick, and that you’re controlling the snare and cymbal volume.  To sum it all up in one word… consistency.
Gear
I am not officially a drummer, although I have picked them up a little and can kick a fat beat.  I don’t know as much about the drum gear itself, but I do know about mic techniques and what sounds good.  Let’s explore a little bit…

Drum shells – The drums themselves are essential to the tone of the drum.  Drums are made of different types of wood and some sound better than others.  Obviously, a really cheap set is going to sound horrible compared to a very expensive set.  This has to do with construction, wood, hardware, finish, heads, etc…  If you have a middle-of-the-road kit, there are some things you can do to make it sound much better than it seems it should.  Again, I am not a drum expert.  I can give some basics, but for more detail info, there are plenty of sites out there with more advanced drum info.  When purchasing a drum set, try out a few kits in your local store and get the sales person to tell you a little about what they’re made of.  A kit made with birch is going to sound awesome.  A kit made with a lesser wood will probably not sound as good.  This will be your ear’s call and your wallet’s.  Get an opinion from a drummer you know and from the sales person.
Drumheads – Drumheads are the part of the drum that you hit with the stick.  One of the best things you can do for your kit is to spend the extra money on some great heads.  They will be more durable, and will sound better.  There are so many different types of heads; you may want to ask a drummer you trust about which ones to get.  A great model to check out are the Evans G2 heads.  They’re popular, 2-ply drum heads that have high durability, good attack, and sound great.  Another great one from Evans is the Evans Hydraulics.  They feature a 2-ply head with a thin layer of oil in between the plies.  The oil gives a fat, wet attack and dampens the strike a bit.  Evans also has a kick drum head called the GMAD which has a ring around the head which allows you to adjust the dampening (the deadening of the resonance of the vibrations when hit) by inserting a foam ring around the edge.  These are just a few of the great heads available, but other great ones are made by companies like Remo and Aquarian. 
Cymbals – A kit, when put together, typically include hi-hats, 1 or 2 crash cymbals, a ride cymbal, and perhaps a splash.  Cymbals typically aren’t included when you buy a drum kit unless you catch some sort of deal at the store, so you’ll either have to pick out the individual cymbals you want, or you can buy a cymbal pack that includes most everything you need.  Zildjian, Sabian, and Paiste are just a few of many companies that make cymbals.  This is all personal taste and how they sound to your ears.  Some will sound crisper, some will sound less trashy, some will have more “sizzle”… you just have to try them.  Again, get some opinions from the drummers in your life.  One of my favorite types of cymbals is china crash cymbals.  China cymbals are usually shape kind of odd, kind of like a sombrero.  They have a big, explosive, what I call, “trashy” sound.  I love it.  Also, a splash cymbal is a great tool to add.  Usually, they’re just 5 or 6 inches in diameter, and they have a small sound, but can add a great accent to a song.
Dampening – Generally, unless you have drum heads with the desired amount of dampening built-in (like the Evans Hydraulics or GMAD); you will want to dampen the resonation of the drum head.  There are several tools out there to do this.  Two of the most popular options are O-Rings and Moon Gel.  O-Rings sit on top of the head around the perimeter and it shortens the length of resonance of the drum head.   Moon Gels are little sticky square gels that you just stick on the head.  The cool thing about Moon Gels is that you can move them on different parts of the head closer to the rim or closer to the middle and achieve a variation of sounds.
  
Sticks and beaters – Drumsticks also have an effect on your drum tone.  Depending on the drummer, the room, and how loud you need to play can determine what sticks feel good to you.  Wooden sticks with round tips, nylon tips, different materials, different sizes and thicknesses are all available.  If you want a big, heavy sound, you may want to use a bigger, heavier stick.  If you’re in a small church with an acoustic kit that is hard to control volume-wise, you may want some soft sticks (rod sticks) which have adjustable sturdiness and output a much lower volume.  Brushes and mallets also have their place when the song calls for it.  The kick drum beater also has some choices.  Some have a soft, felt-like beater, some have hard plastic.  The plastic will give you a sharper smack attack, the felt will give you a boomy-er bass sound. 
Tuning – The most important part of this whole blog entry is tuning.  It doesn’t matter how much you spend on drums, and heads, and sticks... if they are not tuned well, it will sound like garbage.  Tuning is something you will need some guidance on how to do, and experience to get your ears accustomed to knowing what sounds good.  If you don’t know how to tune a drum, get an experienced drummer to come tune your drums.  There’s a great tool called the Drum Dial to help you visual the drum tuning settings so that you can get them back if they go out of tune.  You set the Drum Dial on the drum head near the tuning bolt and it measures the tensions of the drum head.  It’s about $60, but it could save you money in the long run if you have to pay someone to tune the drums every time it’s needed.  If you’re recording, it’s not a bad idea to tune your toms a little higher than you normally would when playing live.  It gives a better attack that helps the recording be more vibrant and engaging. 

Conclusion
There are many aspects that will affect the sound of your live or recorded drums.  It’s not one thing or the other, but rather a collaboration of the elements of gear, usage of the gear, and playing style.  The sound system and the environment surrounding your drums also play a huge part, but I’ll leave that for a near-future entry for the sound guy.  Please comment with any thoughts or advice of your own.  God bless!

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Gear Spotlight: Presonus StudioLive Digital Mixer


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This thing is awesome!  Presonus' StudioLive digital mixer is an incredible board that provides a simple digital mixing interface for live and the studio, as well as acts as a firewire multi-track recording interface that connects to your computer (Mac or PC). They have a 16 channel version ($1999) and a new 24 channel version ($3299).  It has all the typical things you'd expect with a digital mixer: on-board effects, recallable scenes, dynamics for each channel, etc...  There is one set of "channel strip" knobs called the Fat Channel (reminescent of the old Mackie D8B digital board).  Once you "select" a channel, the channel strip is now affecting that channel.  It includes high-pass filter, gate, compressor, EQ, Pan, and Aux assignments.  The 24 channel has some extended compressor, more Auxes, EQ, gate, and limiter knobs to easier fine-tuning.  The input/output section is quite vast as well.



Possibly the coolest thing about this product is the recording interface capabilities.  It includes 2 firewire ports.  You can use the firewire port to connect to your recording computer DAW, as well as expand your system by adding another StudioLive board and double your channels.  You can expand your system by linking up to 4 StudioLive boards, but you can only record up to 32 tracks.  32 tracks is nothing to shake your head at.  That's a lot of tracks!  It comes with a simple recording capture software aptly named "Capture" to ease the pain of recording live.  The simplicity is beautiful; all you do is connect the mixer to your computer via firewire, open capture, arm all tracks and press record.  Capture is made specifically for the StudioLive, so it just works with no setup.  After your tracking is done, you can export the tracks to your favorite recording software (Logic, Cubase, Sonar, etc...).  It also features a very cool and unique function that would allow you to take your previously recorded tracks, and pump them back through your channels on the StudioLive for sound check.  For example, lets say your took your StudioLive 16 channel board to run live sound for a local band you're working with called "God's Dorks".  You have run sound for God's Dorks before, and better yet, you recorded their show.  You get to the venue before God's Dorks and setup all your stuff.  God's Dorks is running late and there will be little time for soundcheck.  You cue up Capture and load the performance you recorded previously.  You select the option to playback all those tracks through your StudioLive board.  All of the audio tracks are routed to the board as if they are plugged in from the stage, and all the channels now operate as if you're mixing the band.  You can then get a soundcheck and make your adjustments with the band that isn't even there!  Pretty slick.

I would personally like to upgrade my setup to one of these StudioLive boards for studio use and live recording that will be done in the future.  Check out the links!

http://www.presonus.com/products/Detail.aspx?ProductId=52
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/StudioLive24/
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/StudioLive16/

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Gear Spotlight: TC Electronic Polytune


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The upcoming TC Electronic Polytune guitar tuner looks to be an awesome step forward in guitar tuner technology.  It's not really a product that gets revamped all that often, but TC seems to have come up with something super cool and I have no idea how they've done it.

You can check it out for yourself on their website, but the basic premise is all you do is strum your guitar (all the strings at the same time) and the tuner gives you a read out of each string at the same time and you make your tuning adjustments.  This is going to save a lot of time when tuning.  I don't know how they extract the tones from each string individually, but who cares.  It works.  Check it out:  http://www.tcelectronic.com/polytune.asp
Starts shipping mid-March.  Pre-order for $99 at American Musical Supply http://www.americanmusical.com/Item--i-TCE-POLYTUNE-LIST

Good job, TC!

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